Cook the Book – Lemon & Herb Baking Powder Biscuits

This is a recipe my grandma passed on to me through my mom. Two very important steps in this recipe are making sure to sift the flour, baking powder and salt – more air means fluffier biscuits. The other is to NOT over mix. Over-mixing will cause you to have hard tack instead of light and fluffy biscuits.

Lemon & Herb Baking Powder Biscuits

2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2  teaspoon salt
1/4  cup shortening
3 tablespoons of fresh herbs such as chives and/or chive blossoms, lemon thyme, thyme, rosemary, lavender
Zest from one lemon
1 teaspoon lemon juice
3/4  cup milk

Preheat oven to 450°. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt.  This is an important step because you want to add air to the mixture so the biscuits are as fluffy as possible. Cut the shortening in with a pastry knife (or your fingers) until the mixture is the texture of coarse meal. Stir in herbs and lemon zest. Add milk and lemon juice, stirring until a soft dough forms. Do not overmix. This is very important; if you overmix you will probably get hard tack instead of fluffy biscuits. Turn out onto a floured board and knead 10 times, then STOP! Roll or pat out the dough until it is 1/2-inch thick.  Cut with a floured 2-inch biscuit cutter. Bake on ungreased cookie pan for 12 to 15 minutes.

Makes 12 biscuits

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Windjammer Film: the Maine Windjammer Fleet and the Riggin Rebuild

As many of your may know, Jon and I plan to lead a rebuild of the J. & E. Riggin, a National Historic Landmark, next winter.  For those of you who don’t know, owning, or as we sometimes say, stewarding, one of these National Historic Landmarks is a way of life and a labor of love.  While they may seem like catch phrases, I can assure you, they aren’t.

The planning stages of the project are underway so to speak and the physical work will begin at the end of September just as quickly as we can get all of the removable parts like sails, mattresses, deck boxes, everything galley related and anything else that we can hoist off the boat and into the barn.

Andy Seestedt, a former crewmember (really an alum, having graduated from the School of Riggin), will be producing an independent film about the unique community of windjammers of which we are apart, the wealth of knowledge and history that lives in these windjammer captains and owners and the one-of-a-kind lifestyles we all choose by becoming stewards of these grand vessels.  The Riggin’s comprehensive restoration will be the lens through which the broader story is told.

Andy has been up from NYC to film a couple of times and his visits will increase in frequency until he’s camped out in Rockland for the fall/winter.

Andy and Capt. Jon

Riggin hauled out at North End Shipyard.

The silly Capt. and Andy

Like all independent projects, funding can be crucial.  Both the rebuild and the film fall into this category.  If you are moved by either story and would like more information or to donate to either project visit Windjammer Film or Association for Maritime Preservation.

Annie
Thinking outside the box

The Galley Chef: Trailer and Photos

I can’t believe I haven’t written about this before!  If you’ve sailed with us or get our newsletter, then this is not necessarily new, but it’s still fun.  If you aren’t that connect to us (yet) then read on!  The Galley Chef is a show about cooking, the Coast of Maine, living in a small community, sailing and family.  A terrific film crew came on board this summer to get the raw footage and then this fall, pieced together some short clips to use in pitches to the usual suspects.

Now we wait for the stars to align so that we find ourselves in the right place at the right time.  No matter what happens, we have all had a terrific time working together and creating something of which we can be proud.  We have no idea where it will take us, but that’s the fun of creative projects.  Sometimes the projects are worthwhile in and of themselves, just for the fun of working collaboratively and innovatively.  If they become something more – even better.  Galley Chef TrailersGalley Chef Photo Album.

Annie
Cross your fingers!

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Replacing White Flour with Whole Wheat in Recipes

Stromboli was lunch today for a group of Waldorf kids on their 8th grade trip adventure.  What a terrific group!

As it was a PPH column first, the previous post only included a link, but now can include the whole recipe.  After it ran, a reader asked this question about replacing white with wheat flour and I thought it was a good one to share:

I always enjoy your column; my husband’s favorite French Onion soup is the one you printed a while back. Now I would like to give your stromboli a try, perhaps for Valentine’s Day. I was wondering what you thought about using whole wheat flour instead of all-purpose, and if I did, whether there are any adaptations I should make. I already plan to try a new brownie recipe from the most recent Cook’s Illustrated magazine, so I figured the stromboli would be fun too. Why not break the caloric bank in the name of love??? (I guess that is why I might feel better using whole wheat flour!!!)

Thanks and I look forward to reading more of your recipe suggestions!

Mary G.

And my response:  That French Onion Soup is my husband’s absolute favorite recipe too (which I will post on a future date.)  I love your phrase about ‘breaking the calorie bank’!  As for using whole wheat, I have two thoughts.  One, don’t replace more than half of the white flour with the wheat, any more and you’ll have to adjust the gluten content or it won’t rise as well.  The other thought is to use whole wheat bread flour, which has more gluten in it, and rises better.  Even so, for the first time, I wouldn’t replace all of the white flour with the wheat. On another note, I read that brownie recipe a couple of days ago and thought to try it as well.  I really love the one I already use, but it’s more fudgy than anything else, which has only seemed a very good thing.

Happy caloric eating to you and your husband!

Stromboli Dough
Stromboli is similar to a pizza or a calzone.  While a pizza is flat and a calzone folded over itself once, stromboli are rolled into a loaf with the toppings inside.

This dough is easily doubled or tripled to make stromboli for a crowd or for any of the above mentioned uses.  Of course you can always knead this dough by hand, but I’m assuming that only the purists among us will do so when a dough hook is readily available.  If you don’t own a dough hook, no worries, our foremothers (and me all summer long) just kneaded the dough for 10-15 minutes by hand.  It’s a meditative and energetic exercise all at once.

3/4 tablespoons dry yeast
1/2 tablespoon salt
2  1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup warm water, reserve 1/4 cup and add as needed
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus a little for the top of the dough
Cornmeal for dusting

Combine the yeast, salt, and flour in a mixing bowl.  With the dough hook attachment of the mixer, mix on low speed.  Add 3/4 cup of water and olive oil.  When the dough begins to form a ball, add more water a tablespoon at a time until the little bits of flour on the bottom of the bowl start to work into the dough.  Knead on medium low speed for 5 to 7 minutes or until the surface of the dough begins to be very smooth and the dough is elastic.

Oil the top of the dough, cover with either a plate or plastic wrap, and set aside in a warm, draft free place to rise until doubled, about 1 hour.

When the dough is ready to roll out, preheat oven to 400°.  Place a cast iron skillet or other heavy oven proof pan in the bottom of the oven.  Dust a baking pan with corn meal.  Roll out the dough on a lightly floured countertop to about the size of a laptop.  Lay out ingredients over the entire surface and roll up snugly into a loaf, tucking in the ends and pinching the seam closed.   Place the loaf onto the pan dusted with cornmeal.  Oil and cover with plastic wrap and allow to rise again, about 1/2 hour.  When the loaf has nearly doubled, make three diagonal slashes on the top with a razor or very sharp knife.

Place the baking pan in the oven, throw 1 cup of water into the skillet on the bottom to generate steam and quickly close the oven door.  Bake for 45 minutes or until golden brown and an internal read thermometer reads 210°.

Serves 4-6

Fillings:
Ricotta and Genoa Salami
1/2 pound sliced Genoa salami
1 cup ricotta cheese
3 oz. grated mozzarella cheese, about 1 cup

OR
Mozzarella with Parsley and Arugula Pesto

1/2 cup pesto (recipe below)
6 oz. grated mozzarella cheese, about  2 cups

Parsley and Arugula Pesto
1/2 packed cup parsley leaves
1/4 packed cup basil leave
1/4 packed cup arugula leaves
2 tablespoons pine nuts
2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine all ingredients in a food processor and pulse until the leaves are finely blended.

Makes 1 cup (I know the stromboli recipe calls for only 1/2 cup, but if you are going to clean the food processor anyway, why not make extra to go in a pasta dish or a dressing on salad?)

No-Cook Tomato Herb Sauce
The stromboli is nice on it’s own, but traditionally it has a sauce to go with it.  I discovered this summer that even canned crushed tomatoes make a flavorful sauce that doesn’t need cooking when the bright flavors of parsley and basil and the zip of fresh garlic are mixed with the tang of red wine vinegar.

1 14oz. can crushed tomatoes, about 2 cups
2 tablespoons minced parsley
2 tablespoons minced basil
1 teaspoons minced garlic, about 1 clove
1 1/2 tablespoon red wine vinegar or 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar and 1/2 tablespoon balsamic
1/8 teaspoon salt
several grinds of fresh black pepper
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

Combine all ingredients in small bowl and set aside until ready to serve.  This sauce benefits from 20-30 minutes of just sitting to allow the herbs and garlic to soften and the flavors to combine.

Makes 2 cups  (again, you’ll have extra, but why not?  With the extra pesto above you’ve got the beginnings of a great pasta dish.)

Annie
Our first days on the bay are always so sweet!

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Salmon, Creme Fraiche and Peas with Penne

“Mama, WHY are we the only ones who take care of the chickens?” say the girls one morning. (They aren’t but who’s counting.)

“I tell you what, I’ll do the chickens both morning and evening if you cook dinner tonight,” I say with complete certainty that they’ll choose chickens.

“DEAL!” they say.

So then goes the conversation about what they’ll make and how they’ll make it all by themselves. Admittedly, they did ask questions and I did hang around the kitchen to field them, but I didn’t touch a pot or a pair of tongs once.

They served it with asparagus from the garden and even figured out how to use the pasta water to blanch the asparagus. The amounts of the peas and the cheese are approximate as I wasn’t in there measuring, but the creme fraiche and the salmon are exact.

It wasn’t just edible; it was GOOD!

Salmon, Creme Fraiche and Peas with Penne
1 pound package of penne
4 oz. creme fraiche
1 1/2 to 2 cups peas. The girls used frozen, but if you have fresh peas? Heaven.
1 1/2 cup grated cheddar cheese. I was skeptical but it was great!
salt and pepper
4 oz. smoked salmon

Asparagus with Lemon
If the asparagus you find is skinnier than what I’ve listed, reduce your blanching time accordingly.
1 bunch thick asparagus (about 3/4-inch diam.)
1/2 lemon
salt and pepper

Cook the pasta for 5 minutes in boiling salted water. Add the asparagus for 4 more minutes. Remove asparagus with tongs to a platter and add the peas to the water for 1 minute. Drain and return to the pasta pot. Add the creme fraiche, cheddar cheese and smoked salmon and stir until the cheddar is melted. Add salt and pepper to taste. Squeeze half a lemon over the asparagus and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Serve the pasta with the asparagus and a lettuce and vegetable salad.

Serves 4 to 6

Annie

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Raising Honey Bees – The Bees Have Arrived!

The air was still shaking off the sharp, crisp tang of an early spring morning when we left with our deep in the back of Joe’s Subaru to receive our first nuc from Humble Abode in Cooper’s Mills, Maine.  The drive through lime and kelly green farm country and past fields of dewy grass took about 45 minutes.  (This number will be significant later in the story. )

Joe, husband to the resident gardener extraordinaire, Rebecca, will be tending two hives on our property.  One for the Riggin and one for their family.  We’ve found just the right spot on our property, tucked on the edge of the apple trees with most of the days sun beckoning the bees to explore and pollinate.

Joe has gone to bee school.  I have not.  Joe knows and remembers that the bees are attracted to shampoo and cosmetics.  I do not.  Joe has learned about how not to get stung.  I have not.

Once we were on the property surrounded by  a sea of boxes and boxes of bees containing five frames each, my naive excitement took over as I inched closer and closer to the bee tenders as they, with their bare hands remove the frames from their boxes into the deeps (the box we would bring home).

And then the bees found me as, one after one, they got tangled in my hair.  After the sixth one, I was no where near close enough to make any more pictures and I was not as calm as I’d wish.  And then, the beekeeper puts the deep into Joe’s Subaru.  Wagon.  Without a trunk.  And oh by the way, there are bees buzzing all around, and not just in the boxes.

My life for the next 45 minutes is becoming more clear and I ask for the net please.  We drive all the way home with me in my net and the bees behaving themselves in the back of the car.  I didn’t want to chance that they would get a big whiff of my hair should I remove the net.  And I must admit, I had a rolled up newspaper in my hands the whole way home.

The sea of bee boxes.

The smoker that the bee keepers use to keep the bees calm.

The comb on the lid shows the bees have been active in this hive.

Scraping off comb on top of the frames so they fit into their new deep.

Frames going into our deep.  The frames are black with bees.

The bees are now safely tucked in and the next nuc is scheduled to come the middle of the week.

Annie
Not as tough as I thought I was!

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Alabama Chanin: Authentic, intentional, FUN!

The original impetus for traveling to Portland a couple of weeks ago was to attend an Alabama Chanin workshop.  I’ve saved the best for last.  Before I met her I admired the intentionality she brought to her clothing and her business, now I’m a fan.

I say often about sustainability, becoming an environmental leader and social responsibility – all catch phrases that are over- and mis-used now -  it’s not about the end result, it’s about the process, about the becoming, the mindfulness that you bring to the subject.  Every business is smarter about how to effect these changes within than any government entity could be and while I’m thankful that more companies have come into awareness about it’s waste streams and it’s procurement practices, there is still an authenticity that is, shall I say, lacking.

The Alabama Chanin company is true to it’s commitment to local, regional and authentic foodways, sourcing and production (if 25 women sewing by hand can be called ‘production’).  All of the fabric is locally sourced and sewn.  The garments are sewn by hand, keeping the traditions and the stories of that craft alive and vibrant.

During the workshop, Natalie said something that has stuck with me, as it should anyone who values authentic, original, unique experiences.  Someone commented on how much work the sewing was and said, “Now I know why your garments are so expensive!”  Natalie said gently in response, “No, now you know why they are worth so much.”

That was an ‘aha moment’ for me.  Our trips on the Riggin are the same:  how much is clean air worth?  How about a week’s worth of locally-sourced, hand made food?  What about wide open spaces, pristine scenery or the feel of the boat as she sails from one island to the next?

This is my project.  It’s one of four panels which will eventually become a skirt.  Two layers, one of gray and the other a patterned black, are sandwiched together and then hand stiched.  Eventually, I’ll cut the centers of the leaves out and the second layer of gray fabric will be visible.

Annie
We’d love to have you join us on the Riggin this summer for the real deal.

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Eating Locally: Fresh Pea Soup and Fiddleheads from Maine

Less than a week before we sail!  Can’t believe we are there already.  This has been the best outfitting season of our career with the perfect mix of good crew and weather and a healthy dose of experience on our part about how to do this well.

The Portland Press ran the column last week about spring veggies – pea shoots, peas, fiddleheads and more.  I’m just now getting to posting.  Once we start sailing, I’m going to do my best to post as often as I can and we’ll see how well that goes!

Tastes of spring
Lemon Parmesan Fiddleheads
Fiddleheads with Tamari and Toasted Sesame Seeds
Fresh Pea Soup with Chives and Crème Fraiche with Pesto Crostini

Annie
Eat your green veggies!

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Hypocracy Reigns Supreme

The sun was bright and high in the sky as I turned the compost pile today.  I find few things more satisfying for releasing aggression (not that I have any, of course) than turning a pile of garden refuse, kitchen waste and office paper into food for the garden.  As I stuck my pitchfork into the pile, I heard a squeak… and froze.  Pulling a little dried grass away from the surface, I found a tiny, eyes-not-yet-opened… baby rat.  And after another shuffle of a little more grass, it’s brothers or sisters.  Four of them.  All blindly scrambling for warmth into each other and trying to avoid the sudden light into their little burrow.  Do I need to say out loud how cute they were?

So it’s official.  I’m a hypocrite.  I could.  Not.  Kill.  The Babies.  And yet, I will absolutely eat meat that is packaged in one way, shape or form.  Hey, even local meat has to come in a package.  Even my own chickens.  Can’t kill ‘em.  Would if I HAD to, but don’t, so can’t bring myself to do it.

The worst part is that two days later I go out to check on the hens and the coop.  I putz around in the coop for awhile, cleaning, tucking up the hawk netting and checking their water.  There were seven eggs in the coop and I figured I’d wait an hour or two to make sure no one else wanted to lay.  Less than two hours later I head back to the coop only to discover no eggs, no trace of eggs.  None.  The hens didn’t get them because I can’t see one single trace of egg yolk or shell.  But rats could have rolled them through the big hole I discover in a corner of hay.  What do I do?  March straight up to the shed for the rat poison to kill the suckers dead for getting my eggs.

Annie
Okay, so I’m a Gemini and the twins are alive and well

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Shrimp with Roasted Red Onions and Lemons over Tomato Risotto with Roasted Asparagus

I don’t get it.  What is wrong with saying to your kids, “This is what we are having for dinner.”  If they say I don’t like it, you say this is what we are having.  If they don’t eat it, they will eventually get hungry and have what’s for dinner.  I know more parents than not who allow their children to have total control over what they will eat and I find myself often wondering who’s in charge here anyway?  These parents give their children guidance and boundaries in other areas, but seem to have abdicated any responsibility in when it comes to food. In other words the kids have a varied diet of three menu options – big shell pasta with cheese, little shell pasta with cheese and macaroni with cheese.  How is this even close to a balanced diet?

I understand kids have different palates and that spicy foods or strongly flavored foods are not as appealing.  There are two little ones who live in my house and even though I’m a chef, I hear more often than not, “No thank you to this, Mama.”  My two favorites are, “Mama, next time you make macaroni and cheese from scratch, can it be the orange kind?”  and “Mama, I’m sorry to say, but your pizza isn’t as good as Domino’s.”  This from the kid who picks off the cheese and sauce from her Domino’s pizza and eats the bread only.  No big or swelled heads growing in my household.

Eating sparsely at a meal or two or three is not the equivalent of starvation, although it sounds sometimes as if this is what parents are worried about.  One of my daughters has always been a steady, constant eater while the other would be in complete control of the kitchen if we allowed it.  When she was little she would go for two or three days and eat maybe two or three bites off of her plate.  Did we worry?  Sure, we are parents after all and that’s what we do.  But we didn’t change anything or make a deal out of it.  We just kept offering her healthy food and by the third day, she’d eat three helpings of whatever it was we were having.  She’s now nine and she still has the same pattern.  Not eat much for a few days, stock pile on the third or forth.

As a kid I can remember not liking onions, sauerkraut (which you could smell even outside and was to my nose the worst smell invented) or spicy food.  One the nights we had sauerkraut for dinner I’d make it a full-time hobby to be having dinner at a friend’s house.  On the other hand, most nights when I didn’t like what was for dinner, I ate it anyway because I knew that there weren’t other choices.  This business of cooking several different meals for you and each of your kids is insane.  Aren’t we all busy enough as it is, without making more than one meal per sitting?

Once, a day care provider told me that the kids in her care all had candy every day because “at least they ate something during the day.”  Are you joking?  What about putting nutritious snacks in front of them and not giving them unhealthy choices?  They will eat eventually.  Or not.  But then don’t give them the junky choice as a last resort and essentially a reward for being stubborn about their food.

It also seems that the less of a deal you make about this whole food drama the better.  Set a few boundaries, stick to them calmly and be done with the conversation.  Example: Rule 1, Mom or Dad are only making one meal for everyone.  Rule 2, We’ll all sit down at the table together to eat.  Rule 3, Everyone needs to have at least one bite of everything on the table.  Period.  When there’s grumbling, remind about rules one through three and be done with the conversation.  When no one eats the first few meals, make sure that they are getting healthy things for breakfast and lunch.  When someone doesn’t care for what’s being served, calmly remind about rule three and stop talking.  If you are really concerned about them having something allow them to get a piece of fruit.

This rant is really about the health of our kids.  We are the parents and it’s up to us to make sure that they eat well.  We can’t force them to eat, just like we can force potty training, sleep or good manners.  We can only provide guidance and good choices in a consistent and loving way.  This is a meal my kids liked – mostly.  They loved the shrimp and the risotto.  Picked around the onions and lemons and one had the tiniest fairy bite of asparagus.  Good enough for me.

Shrimp with Roasted Red Onions and Lemons

1 pound 16/20 shrimp or large shrimp, peeled
2 tablespoons lemon juice, or about 1/2 lemon
3/4 teaspoon salt (1/4 each for shrimp, onion and lemon mix and asparagus)
4 tablespoons olive oil (some for the shrimp and some for the roasted onions and lemons)
1/2 lemon sliced into 1/4 inch wedges
1 red onion sliced into 1/4 inch wedges
several grinds of fresh black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 bunch asparagus, ends trimmed
several grinds of fresh black pepper

Preheat oven to 400°.  In a small bowl, combine the shrimp, lemon, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon olive oil and mix.  Set aside.  On a baking sheet with sides, combine the lemon, red onion, 1/4 teaspoon salt, pepper and 1 tablespoon olive oil.  On the same baking sheet, make room for the asparagus spears (about half the pan).  Drizzle 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper over the asparagus.  Roast in the oven until the edges of the onions and lemons are just beginning to become dark brown.  Add the shrimp to the onions and lemons and return to the oven for another 5 minutes.  The asparagus, onions and lemons should be tender and the shrimp just turning opaque.  Reserve any liquid from the pan and serve the shrimp with sauce over the risotto.  The asparagus could be plated separately.

Serves 4

Tomato Risotto

4 tablespoons butter, 1/2 stick
1/2 cup diced onion
2 cups Arborio rice
4 cups low-salt chicken stock
1/8 teaspoon salt
pinch of white pepper
1 cup diced fresh tomatoes
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat.  Add the onions and sauté until the onions are translucent, about 10 minutes.  If the onions begin to brown, reduce heat.  When the onions are done, add the rice and stir for one minute.  Add the salt, pepper and 1 cup of the stock and stir.  Continue to add the stock one cup at a time until it is all incorporated stirring frequently.  The rice is done when the liquid is completely incorporated and the grains are just the tiniest bit al dente in the center.  Add the tomatoes and 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese.  Reserve the second 1/2 cup for garnishing at the table.

Serves 4

Annie
Mean mom

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