Announcing Sugar and Salt: Book Two -The Orange Book! This collection of recipes from my galley and home kitchen will arrive at our door step (or barn step) soon! Here’s a look at the process….
Now that was fun!
Click Sugar and Salt to order.
There’s nothing like going out to the garden after a serious winter when the only thing to harvest from the garden is dreams of vegetables yet-to-be-grown and pulling leeks long buried in a mountain of straw. Satisfaction supreme.
These sweet babies just had to become soup. Adding the last of the sweet potatoes from the root cellar, a few white beans leftover from another meal and dinner was born.Sweet Potato and White Bean Soup with Leeks
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups leeks, diced and washed; about 2 leeks
4 cups sweet potatoes, diced; about 2 sweet potatoes
3 tablespoons garlic, minced; about 3 cloves
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2, 15-ounce cans cannellini beans
1 pork hock
1/2 cup sherry (or more to taste at the end)
6 cups chicken stock
2 cups water
1 head escarole, chopped into bite-sized pieces and washed
2 tablespoons tamari (or more)
Heat a medium stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the oil and leeks and sauté until the leeks are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add sweet potatoes, salt and pepper and sauté for another 5 minutes. Make a small space for the garlic and add it to the pan, sauteing for only 30 seconds to one minute. Add the rest of the ingredients except for the escarole, tamari and extra sherry. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 1 1/2 hours or until the white beans are soft. Add escarole and tamari and sherry to taste and cook for another 3-4 minutes.
Serves 6 to 8
Often times when I make chowder, I’m standing next to my hot cast iron wood stove (on our Maine windjammer) stirring at least a couple of pots, turning bread baking in the oven and prepping yet another baked good slatted for a future meal. I think of how many pots of chowder have been made on wood stoves just like mine and the people these potages have nourished.
It’s a traditional meal that pulls musings of times past and almost demands the ritual of following in the footsteps of cooks that have gone before.
All sorts of chowder recipes abound in these parts, but most of them, while delicious, are not chowder in the book of old-time Mainers. True chowder is milky, not thick, and is slightly thickened with either day old biscuits or oyster crackers (or saltines), not a roux (a flour and butter mixture). In addition, true chowder contains salt pork, not bacon. Always. If either of these things are not in existence, then, I’ve been told, it’s not true Maine chowder, however yummy.
This recipe begins with the required salt pork, something fairly easy to come by in our local Maine butchers or even in the grocery store. This salted, but not smoked, pig belly is the backbone of flavor for every traditional chowder one might concoct. In addition, once the vegetables have sauteed and become soft, day-old biscuits are added – fairly early in the soup making process so they have ample time to soften and disintegrate, becoming indistinguishable and thickening the soup slightly.
Lastly, because I’m often making my chowder on the Riggin where I could be called away from the stove at any moment to drive the yawl boat, take the wheel, or tend to a guest, I use evaporated milk. Evaporated milk doesn’t separate nearly as easily as straight milk when the heat is on for too long. It’s a safety net for me and does add a bit of body and flavor to the soup as well.
Enjoy this nod to the food traditions of the past. Who knows, maybe one of your ancestors made chowder for their people.
Maine Seafood Chowder
6 ounces salt pork
2 cups diced celery; about 3 stalks
2 cups diced onion; about 1 large onion
6 cups potatoes, peeled if need and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
2 day old biscuits or 6 saltines
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 cups clam juice
3 cups chicken or vegetable broth
2 cans evaporated milk
1 pound haddock
1/4 pound 40-60 shrimp, shells removed and sliced in half
1 pound fresh clams, well-cleaned or 2 cups canned clams
Score the salt pork and place it scored side down in a large stock pot over medium-high heat. When the salt pork has rendered for 5 to 10 minutes, add the celery and the onions and sauté for 7 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the potatoes and cook for another 10 minutes. Add the biscuits, salt, pepper, clam juice and broth and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until the biscuits have disintegrated and the potatoes are cooked through. Add the evaporated milk and bring to a simmer again. Lastly add the seafood and just cook through, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let the haddock finish cooking.
Serves 6 to 8
Headed off to make biscuits to go with AND into the chowder!
A pot of chicken stock simmering on the stove. The windows edged with moisture. The wind howling outside while inside, all is well, warm, and welcoming. That’s what this soup is about.
Today I’m feeling especially grateful for the people who grow our food and the animals that become our meals. That our food is well-tended before it reaches our plates is a gift. I appreciate what nourishes my body and the bodies of those I love. Abundance comes to us in so many ways and I feel rich and full and blessed.
Ginger, Sesame Chicken Soup with Cilantro Sesame Pesto
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cups diced onions; about 1 large onion
2 cups diced carrots; about 2 carrots
1/4 cup fresh ginger, peeled and julienned (cut into match-stick sized pieces)
1 teaspoon salt
8 cups chicken broth
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
3 cups cooked chicken meat
Heat a large stock pot over medium-high heat. Add the oil, onions and carrots and sauté for 7 to 10 minutes or until the onions are soft and translucent. Add the ginger and sauté for another 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients and bring to a boil to heat through. Serve with a dollop of Cilantro Sesame Pesto.
Serves 4 to 6
Cilantro Sesame Pesto
1/3 cup sesame seeds
2 cups lightly packed cilantro leaves and stems
1/4 cup scallions, coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons lime juice
1 small garlic clove, smashed
3/8 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Combine everything in the food processor and pulse until thoroughly combined.
Makes about 1/2 cup
Enjoy this light, after-the-holidays meal!
Potatoes are the one leftover which needs to be used up before it is relegated to the compost pile. They don’t freeze well, so think of ways to incorporate this Thanksgiving leftover into another meal sooner rather than later.
Of course, mashed potatoes can easily become a side for another meal. And I’ve already mentioned that roasted potatoes could become Turkey Hash. But there are a myriad of other ways that these versatile spuds can take root in another dish (see what I did there?).
Potato Cakes – Combine the mashed potatoes with some bread crumbs and an egg or two. Dredge them in more bread crumbs or in grated Parmesan cheese and pan fry them in a little oil or butter. Serve along-side grilled hanger or skirt steak or for breakfast with eggs and toast.
Potato Bread – Add mashed potatoes to your favorite bread recipe, reducing the liquid by half. For example, if the recipe calls for 1 cup of water, add 1 cup of mashed potatoes and 1/2 cup of water. Add dill, fennel or caraway seeds as an optional flavor.
Potato Leek Soup – Sauté onions and leeks in butter, salt and pepper. Add white wine and stock. Stir in mashed potatoes and adjust for salt and pepper.
It’s a toss up as to which is the better meal – the Thanksgiving meal we had yesterday or the amazing leftovers we will have today and this weekend. My mouth is watering over the endless possibilities, not the least of which is the turkey club sandwich that will be on my plate in the near future. In truth, I considered having it for breakfast.
First things first, however. If you haven’t already done so, add all of the bones from your turkey to a stock pot, cover with water, add an onion, a carrot or two, and a stalk of celery. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and let it hang out on the stove top for an hour or so. Strain and either freeze or use for a quick leftover soup.
The next thing to do is freeze anything that you won’t use within the next couple of days. Divide everything into individual or family-sized portions and place into re-sealable freezer bags or freezer containers. Label and date everything. (Even if you are SURE you will remember. Three months from now, you won’t have a clue.) Most items from a Thanksgiving meal will freeze well except anything that has potatoes in it. Even mashed potatoes tend to become mealy and watery after being frozen so use those up quickly.
Next is to utilize all of those yummy leftovers and make something equally yummy for a meal today. Here are a few thoughts and I’ll post a few more over the course of the weekend.
Leftover Turkey Soup
Less a recipe and more a suggestion, this is my favorite kind of cooking – open the refrigerator door and start pulling things out to make a meal.
In a medium or large stock pot, melt butter. Sauté diced onions and celery until translucent. Spices like cumin, curry, and chili powder take this soup far away from the traditional meal it began as. Add cut up or pulled pieces of turkey, pureed squash or sweet potatoes, any steamed or sautéed vegetable and the turkey stock you just made with the leftover bones. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 30 minutes. Serve with a salad and some leftover rolls heated up. Add noodles, rice, gnocchi, diced potatoes, lentils or barley for variations.
Leftover Turkey Sandwich Ideas
The sky is the limit here, but you might try these combinations:
Turkey with mayonnaise, cranberry sauce, havarti cheese and lettuce on a baguette.
Turkey with avocado, mango salsa, cilantro and mayonnaise in a wrap (or wrap with lettuce).
If you were lucky enough to have ham too, layer turkey and ham with cranberry sauce, caramelized red onion and cheddar cheese on rye bread.
Roasted zucchini slices with creamed onions, Dijon mustard, tomato slices and a sprinkling of toasted pine nuts on focaccia bread with or without turkey.
Let me know what you made!
At first glance, soups and stews might not seem all that glamorous in terms of a topic for a gourmet cooking cruise, however, how to begin and season a soup or stew is the very basis for not only many a diners’ dinner, but also the sauces that can elegantly top a seared tenderloin or grilled salmon.
From stock to pistou, we’ll talk about how to make super tasty and healthy soups, stews, and sauces and then sample them for lunch or for dinner. Perhaps it will be a Coconut Curried Lentil and Potato Soup with Nan or a Pork Loin Roast with a Rhubarb and Red Wine Reduction Sauce. Who knows, because the menu is different every week on the Riggin, so your guess is as good as mine.
Soup, Stew, and Sauce Tip: The time a cook takes to saute the vegetables at the beginning of a soup, sauce, or stew can not be underestimated. When the vegetables caramelize a bit and begin to develop a little brown on the bottom of the pan, flavor is building. To rush this process is to forgo the depth of flavor that is possible forever.
Come share some super good food with us! July 6 to 9 is our next Maine Food Cruise, but there are more on the schedule. Check it out!
It’s not always practical to follow a recipe, although it may be easier on some fronts. Certainly, knowing that someone else has tested a recipe increases the chances of success. On the other hand, when those moments arrive when ‘there’s nothing in the fridge to eat’ but still no space for more food, it’s time to get creative. Typically, following a recipe is not going to use up the eclectic mix of ingredients found collected in your home and refrigerator.
In these moments, soup is one among many meals that work well for using up odds and ends of things. However, this needs to be done in a somewhat thoughtful fashion, else the soup becomes a muddy, unappetizing mess – everything-but-the-kitchen-sink sort of mess. The ingredients should somehow relate to one another. What I found yesterday in the house were the following… all needing to find a home in a meal.
Chicken and Red Kidney Bean Chili
diced green pepper
partial packet of taco seasoning from a taco kit
plus some extra cumin
salt and pepper
cooked red kidney beans
Heat the oil in a medium stock pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions and peppers and saute until translucent. Add the garlic, chicken, spices, salt and pepper and saute until the chicken is cooked through. Add the rest of the ingredients and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 30 minutes and either serve or let sit refrigerated for a day to absorb the flavors of the spices.
Waiting one more day before I go to the grocery store
New England Clam Chowder was one of the first things I learned to make when I came to Maine to work on a Maine windjammer more than twenty-five years ago. This simple recipe is both a signature dish and an iconic meal that embodies the characteristics of New England in general and Maine in specific: hearty, warming, simple, frugal and nourishing.
It’s only a few days until daylight savings time, however, until the snow melts from the ground and the temperature rises above 35 degrees most days, comfort food will remain a staple in our house. I just can’t bring myself to keep the stove off! Scarves, many layers, turtlenecks and fingerless mittens are also a constant. It’s just how it is some years in Maine.
I find myself looking for those things I love because complaining about weather, over which I have zero control, is not my cup of tea (or bowl of stew)… Could this be the last snow fall of the season? How lovely that a new coat of snow has freshened up the roadsides and our yard. Are those cardinals at the bird feeder? The seeds are on their way. The green is on its way. The warmth is on its way….
And for now I’ll delight in the cozy meals that still sound just as delicious now as they did in October when I began to crave them. Fish Stew with Porcini Mushrooms is the recipe that ran in the Portland Press Herald today. Of course Quick Buttermilk Bread goes super well with the stew. Check it out.
Turning my attention to things I like