My mom and dad are here for a visit and now our girls are asking for Grandma’s Spaghetti and Meatballs.  For me, this interlinking and weaving of memories and recipes is utterly soul-satisfying.  I can remember as a child anticipating this meal at a friend’s house, mouth watering and barely able to contain my impatience, and then having the reality fall absolutely flat.  It’s a wonderful phenomena when nothing can compare to what your mom makes.

Now that I have a mom and AM a mom, there are times when I think that it’s just so unfair.  I’m the mama and no one can take my place.  Most of the time this fits me just perfectly.  But what makes parenthood so tough and simultaneously so rewarding is that you don’t get to choose your days, take a day or a night off or go on vacation.  At three in the morning, night after night of broken sleep,  I’m the one who has to nurse the babies, no one else can do it for me.  After a long day of work and irritation that I am unable to slough off, I’m the one who gets the best and the worst of my children’s days, no one else can do it for me.

The same is true of comfort food – no one else can do it for you.  It matters that you make it with your hands, that you chose to spend a portion of your day thinking about and creating nourishment for those who will come together around your table.

For tips on making meatballs, Mozzarella-Stuffed Meatballs and Meatball Subs here’s the column link.

Mom’s Spaghetti with Meat Balls
This is the meal that as kids we would ask for more than any other.  It was our favorite birthday dinner for many years.

Sauce:
1 28-ounce can of pureed tomatoes
1 28-ounce can of crushed or diced tomatoes
1 12-ounce can tomato paste
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4  teaspoon dried oregano
1/4  teaspoon dried basil
1/4  teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 large onion, diced
2 tablespoons parsley flakes
Meat Balls:
2 pounds ground beef
1 cup breadcrumbs
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
2 cloves minced garlic
1/8 teaspoon fresh black pepper
1 large egg

Sauce:
Add everything to a stockpot, bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours, stirring occasionally.  While the sauce is simmering make the meatballs.
Meatballs:
Preheat oven to 350°.
Mix together the meatball ingredients.  Form them into 11/2-inch balls.  Place the meatballs in a single layer in a baking pan.  Bake until cooked through (around 1/2 hour).  Drain off the fat and place the meatballs into the sauce and simmer for another 30 minutes.  Serve with your favorite spaghetti or linguini.

Serves 6-8

Annie
Thanks, Mom.  For all of it.

Tagged: Annie Mahle, cooking with mom, meatballs, spaghetti with meatballs, stuffed meatballs ]]> http://athomeatsea.com/2011/09/24/mom-making-moms-spaghetti-and-meatballs/feed/ 0 Annie AnniesMom1a http://athomeatsea.com/2011/09/23/tomato-leek-brie-linguini/ http://athomeatsea.com/2011/09/23/tomato-leek-brie-linguini/#comments Fri, 23 Sep 2011 16:07:01 +0000 anniemahle http://athomeatsea.com/?p=1905 ]]> Tomato, Leek, Brie Linguini

1 tablespoon butter
1 clove garlic, minced
1 large leek, cut in half lengthwise, thoroughly washed, and thinly sliced
2 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
3 tablespoons white wine
4 ounces brie
Salt and pepper to taste

Prepare enough linguini for two while making the sauce. Melt the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté it briefly. Add the leeks and cook until tender. Add the tomatoes and wine; bring the sauce to a simmer, then whisk in the brie a few pieces at a time. When the brie is melted, season to taste with salt and pepper, toss with the linguini and serve.

Serves 2.

We often serve this soup with Pico de Gallo.

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 large onions, diced
1 large green pepper, seeded and diced
1 dried Ancho chili, reconstituted and minced
9 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon cumin
1 teaspoon salt
1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes
1 16-ounce can black beans
5 cups chicken or vegetable stock
Juice of 1 lime
1/2 cup jasmine rice

Garnish:
Sour cream
Lime wedges
Coarsely chopped cilantro

Heat the olive oil in a medium-sized stockpot over medium-high heat; add the onions, peppers, garlic, cumin and salt to the pot and cook until the onions are translucent.  Add the remaining ingredients except for the rice and simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes. Add the jasmine rice and simmer for another 15 minutes.  Add additional stock or water if needed. Garnish with sour cream, lime wedges, and cilantro.

Serves 4-6

A way to recreate this effect, should you not have a woodstove handy, is to grill it.  Much more modern!  I started grilling bread while working in the Caribbean as a chef on a yacht as a way to reduce the heat in the galley.  It was a perfect accompaniment to meals made with fruit salsas, peppers and spices.  It’s a twist on a very traditional way to cook bread as some folks do in tandoor and adobe ovens. I’ve included some of my favorite toppings here.  These variations will stand on their own as a meal, or could be an appetizer or an accompaniment to an entrée.

Focaccia Dough

To make ahead of time:  in the morning make the dough, cover and refrigerate until the afternoon or early evening.

1 1/2 tablespoons dry yeast
1 tablespoon salt
5 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups warm water
2 tablespoons olive oil
Cornmeal for dusting

Combine the yeast, salt, and flour in a large bowl. Stir in all the remaining ingredients, reserving 1/4 cup water.  Add more water if needed. With a dough hook: knead for 15 minutes on low speed.

By hand: knead for 10-15 minutes (only 15 more minutes to make that daily exercise goal!). Oil the bowl and the top of the dough, cover, and set aside in a warm, draft free place to rise until doubled (about 1 hour).  Or all day if in the refrigerator.

Preheat grill on medium heat.  After the first rise, turn the dough out onto a floured counter, divide into four equal pieces and shape into loose balls.

Work all four pieces flat either with your hands or with a rolling pin.  If the dough is fighting you (keeps shrinking back when you stretch it), just let it rest for 5 minutes and continue.  Place them on a big, floured cutting board and walk them to the grill.

Brush the tops of them with olive oil and transfer to the grill, oil side down.  Cook as many as you can at one time – usually two.  Grill with the lid on for 4 minutes on one side and turn.  Brush with olive oil and then place the toppings on and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Grill for another 4 minutes with the lid on.  Remove and cut into 9-12 pieces.

Toppings

Ricotta and Proscuitto
1/2 cup ricotta cheese
2oz. proscuitto

Lay the proscuitto slices on and then dot with ricotta cheese.  Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Pancetta, Oyster Mushrooms and Goat Cheese
I found local oyster mushrooms at our coop and couldn’t resist the combination.  They were so fresh that I just gently broke them up with my hands into the pan.  You can substitute button mushrooms if needed.

4 oz. pancetta, diced
4 oz. oyster mushrooms
4 oz. goat cheese
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper

Heat a medium sized skillet on medium high heat.  Add the pancetta to the pan and cook until almost rendered.  Add the oyster mushrooms and cook one minute more.

Spoon the mixture over the focaccia and dot with goat cheese.

Feta, Lemon, Red Onion and Dill
4 oz. feta cheese
3/4 cup red onion, sliced
juice from 1/2 lemon
2 tablespoons fresh dill, chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper

Sprinkle all of the ingredients on top of the focaccia and once the focaccia has finished cooking, squirt with the lemon juice.

Tomato and Basil Pesto
This is a standard combination that I made for the kids, turns out they liked the one with ricotta and proscuitto even better.

1/4 cup basil pesto
1 tomato, sliced thinly
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper

Spread the focaccia with the basil and distribute the tomato slices on top.  Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

This salad was inspired by a local restaurant called Market on Main (M.O.M.).  It seemed like an odd combination, but I’m always trying the interesting dishes on menus.  The tart fruits – grapes and citrus – really give this dish the punch that makes it great.  I can find Israeli couscous at our local health food store and at the grocery store in the specialty foods section.

2 cups Israeli couscous
1 cup diced watermelon
1 cup diced honeydew
1 cup diced cantaloupe
1 cup green grapes, cut in half
1 cup currants
1/4 cup vegetable oil
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
Juice and zest of 1 orange
Juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon honey
1 tablespoon minced fresh mint
Pinch of salt
Mint leaves and lemon wedges for garnish

Cook the couscous according to the package directions. Drain and rinse with cold water; set aside.  While the couscous is cooking, mix the remaining ingredients together in a large bowl. Toss the drained couscous into the fruit, garnish with mint leaves and citrus wedges and serve.

Serves 6-8

Photo Frank M. Chillemi.

Slice the shrimp in half lengthwise.  In a medium bowl pour boiling water over the couscous and salt.  Stir gently with a fork and cover for 5 minutes.  Heat a large sauté pan over medium high heat.  Add the olive oil and garlic to the pan and sauté 30 seconds.  Add the snap peas, dill and salt and pepper and sauté 1 minute.  Add the white wine and lemon juice and sauté another 2 minutes.  Remove from heat and stir in the shrimp and tomatoes.  Separate the grains of couscous with a fork and spoon over a bed of baby greens.  Spoon the shrimp mixture on top of the couscous then crumble feta cheese on top and serve.

Serves 4

Green, Green Pasta

Spinach Balls

They do well if frozen, but do not defrost in the microwave, but rather bring to room temperature or heat in the oven or toaster oven.   Add to Marinara Sauce or cool and refrigerate or freeze.  Makes approximately 48 spinach balls

Spinach Balls:
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, (4 T. for spinach balls, 2 T. for green beans, 2 T. to toss with pasta)
1 cup minced onions
2, 16 oz. packages frozen chopped spinach, defrosted
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 eggs
2 cups bread crumbs
1 teaspoon kosher salt
several grinds of fresh black pepper

Green Beans:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
10 ounces green beans, stem ends removed and cut into thirds
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
several grinds of fresh black pepper

1 pound spinach fettuccine
1 1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese

Spinach Balls:
Preheat oven to 350°.  In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat.  Add the onions and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes.  Remove from heat and add the rest of the ingredients.  With a small melon baller, form the dough into 1-inch balls and place on a baking sheet.  Bake for 30 minutes.

Green Beans:
In the skillet that you cooked the onions, melt 2 tablespoons of butter and add the green beans, salt and pepper.  Sauté on high heat for 3 to 4 minutes or until the beans begin to brown on the outside, but are still crunchy on the inside.  Remove from heat and set aside until the pasta is done.

Cook the pasta to package instructions in a medium stockpot filled with boiling, salted water.  Stir well when you first add the pasta to the water to prevent the noodles from sticking to each other.  When the noodles still have a insy, tiny dot of white in the center when you cut one in half, they are done.  Drain and transfer to a large serving bowl or platter.  Toss with 2 tablespoons butter and half of the Parmesan.  Top with the green beans and then the spinach balls.  Serve with the other half of the Parmesan as an additional topping.

Serves 6-8

The original idea for this recipe came from a technique used by Judy Rodgers of Zuni Café.  She salts all of the meat and some of the vegetables as they come into the restaurant, giving days, rather than minutes for a deeper flavor as opposed to simply a surface salting.  It’s a form of dry-salting and actually allows retention of moisture rather than a drying out of the meat.

Here’s how it works.  The chemical reaction that takes place is called osmosis, which is the moving out of or into cells – in this case, salt, moisture and aromatics.  At first, salted meats do leach liquid which is where the still popular idea that “salting ahead of time dries out meat” comes from.  But then, the reverse begins to happen and the moisture that returns to the cells is now flavored with salt, making the cells more resilient to heat and promoting juiciness and tenderness.  The salt actually goes to work on the proteins and “opens them up” allowing them to hold more moisture.

This technique is most dramatic with large, sinuous cuts of meat where the surface area to weight is lesser.  The amount of salt used on these cuts will look too heavy handed initially, but will produce a well seasoned, not salty, succulent slice of meat.

For smaller and more tender cuts of meat such as chicken breasts or in this case, the pork tenderloin, less time and salt is required.  This method is also forgiving.  If you change your mind and decide to have something else for dinner, it will wait another day.  In addition, if you found you over bought at the grocery store and are worried about a few things going before you have a chance to use them, this is also a good technique for extending the life and freshness of your purchases.  Salting is a time honored method of preservation used for centuries, although we are talking about using considerably less salt in this method.  Keep in mind that this won’t bring back from the dead what should be given a “go directly to the garbage” ticket.

I used locally raised pork for this recipe which usually means the tenderloins are smaller due to the smaller size of the pigs when slaughtered.  In the grocery store, they typically come 2 to a package and are 12 to 16oz. each.  I find that if sliced on the bias as you would flank steak, that a full 6 to 8oz. portion per person is not necessary.  This will then serve 6 to 8 people instead of the 4 to 6 listed below and it’s possible to stretch to 10 to 12 if you plan to serve another side.  If you can only find the tenderloins packaged in twos, either save one for another meal or increase the rest of the ingredients by two.

This recipe would also be great with a blue cheese aioli or another cold and creamy blue cheese sauce.

Pork Tenderloin with Toasted Walnuts, Sage and Blue Cheese
2 small pork tenderloins or one large, about 1 pound, silverskin removed
two generous pinches of sea salt, with a grind the size of kosher salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon canola or peanut oil
several grind of fresh black pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup lightly packed sage leaves
pinches of salt for both the sage leaves and walnuts
1 cup whole walnuts
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 oz. crumbled blue cheese

The day before you plan to serve the tenderloin, lightly sprinkle with salt and drizzle with olive oil.  Return to the refrigerator until ready to cook.  They can be salted 24 to 48 hours ahead.

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the canola oil to the pan.  Carefully add the tenderloin and season with black pepper.  Sear on all sides for 10 to 15 minutes or until an internal read thermometer registers 145 degrees.  Remove from the pan to a platter and let rest.

In the same pan, add the olive oil and then the sage leaves.  Spread them out so that they are all touching the bottom of the pan and remove with tongs when they darken and become crisp, about 1 minute.  Lightly salt and set aside on a serving platter.  Again with the same pan (being frugal on the water and the dishwasher), add the walnuts and stir until the outsides begin to brown lightly, about 2 to 3 minutes.  Remove from pan to the same platter that holds the sage, lightly salt and set aside.  Once more with the same pan, on medium-high heat, add the butter.  Swirl until the butter has bubbled and then begins to brown.  Pour over the sage and walnuts and toss gently.  Slice the pork with a diagonal cut 1/4 inch thick and place on top of the walnut and sage mixture.  Sprinkle all with blue cheese and serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6

Roasted Carrots, Red Onion and Kale
Curly or Russian kale will get a little crispy on the edges in this recipe while Lacinato kale (the longer more wrinkled variety) will wilt more like other greens do.  Both are delicious.
1 1/2 pounds carrots, sliced into 1/4 inch slices
1/2 red onion, sliced thinly
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus another 1/4 teaspoon for the kale
several grinds of fresh black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus another 2 tablespoons for the kale
1/2 bunch of kale, stemmed and coarsely chopped

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  On a large roasting pan, drizzle olive oil, salt and pepper over the carrots and onions.  Use your hands to coat evenly.  Roast for 1 hour or until the carrots are tender and the onions are beginning to brown.  Add the kale and drizzle with more oil salt and pepper.  Stir well and roast for another 20 minutes or until the kale is bright green and a little crispy on the edges.

Serves 4-6

Crispy Pasta
Like many things delicious, this recipe was invented through necessity, not creativity.  There are times either at home or on the boat when what I thought we had in the way of supplies, turns out to be less than originally planned (say, hypothetically eaten during a late night watch by a ravenous 20 year old deck hand who works hard all day and is still growing into his 6’4” limbs) and I need to move to plan C.

This will also work with leftover dried pasta, but is terrific with the homemade.  This is an intentionally loose recipe intended for the vagaries of the amount of leftover pasta with which you find yourself.  The amount of onions in this recipe is intended for 4-6 people, but if you want to increase or decrease the amount of pasta, then do so accordingly with the onions.

a handful of cold cooked pasta per person
1 cup caramelized onions (about 3 cups before you cook them down)
1-2 tablespoons grated Parmesan per person
salt and black pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Toss the pasta with olive oil in a roasting pan.  Place pan on middle shelf in oven.  Bake until the edges crisp up and turns golden brown.  Toss with the rest of ingredients and bake for another 3 to 5 minutes.  Serve immediately.

Annie

However, when I walked into Neal and Kathy’s house, of the Kitchen Gardener and Duck Fest Extraordinaire, and saw a mountain of gorgeous bagels that Kathy had baked herself, I was again imbued with a determination to try again.  Kathy uses Julia Child’s recipe and so I followed suit.  Now I’m not sure that I’ll ever want to buy bagels again (sorry bagel store down the road) and I’m working on the logistics of making them for breakfast on the Riggin.  How does bagels and lox for 30 people sound?

This recipe is not a beginners recipe, but rather one for someone who’s already successfully kneaded and baked a loaf of bread.  What I’ve done here, because the original recipe by Dorie Greenspan is so long, is to give the measurements and  ingredients and paraphrase the instructions.  Dorie’s full directions are fleshed out wonderfully in Baking with Julia and if you don’t have a copy, I’d recommend it to anyone who has an interest in baking beautiful breads and pastries at home (or on a boat!)

Bagels by Dorie Greenspan and Julie Child

Ingredients:
Because the work involved is not insignificant, I’ve been at least doubling the recipe for my family of four.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast
2 1/4 cups tepid water
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons vegetable shortening
1 tablespo salt
6 cups high-gluten flour, bread flour or if you have to all purpose flour

Combine the yeast, water and sugar and let the yeast dissolve until creamy.  Add the flour, 1/2 cup at a time and stir until incorporated.  When the dough is soft and sticky and wanting to be in a ball, turn it out onto a board and knead for 5 to 6 minutes.  Transfer the ball of dough to a bowl brushed with the melted butter and brush the top of the dough too.  Cover with plastic wrap and rise until double, about 1 hour.

Deflate the dough by pressing your fist into the center of the dough and then chill for four hours or over night.  When you are ready to bake the bagels, preheat oven to 500 degrees.  Line two baking sheets with kitchen towels, dusting one with flour.  Bring a stockpot of water to a boil and add 1/4 cup sugar and 1 teaspoon baking soda.

Transfer the dough to a floured board and cut into 10 equal pieces.  Shape into balls by pinching all edges together.

Press your index finger into the center and work into a bagel shape with the hole about 2 to 2 1/2 inches wide (it will shrink as soon as you stop working the dough).  Place on the floured towel and repeat.  To keep all dough that you aren’t touching from forming a crust, cover with kitchen towels.

In batches, transfer the bagels to the boiling water with a slotted spoon or carefully with your hands.  Boil on each side for 1 to 2 minutes. 

Remove with a skimmer or slotted spoon to the baking sheet/unfloured kitchen towel.  Work quickly as they’ll stick to the towel.

Transfer the bagels to a clean, dry baking sheet and brush bagels with a glaze of 2 large egg whites and 1 teaspoon cold water.  Try not to get the glaze on the baking sheet as it will cause the bagels to stick.  Sprinkle with whatever toppings you love.

Transfer the baking sheet to the oven and toss ice cubes onto the bottom of the oven or into a baking pan to create steam.  A squirt bottle of water also works as long as you steer well clear of the oven light.  Turn the oven down to 450 degrees and bake for 25 minutes.

Turn off the oven and leave the bagels for another 5 minutes.  Open the oven door for another 5 minutes and then remove the pan.

Inhale.  Breathe.  Get out the cream cheese, cured salmon, capers and dill.  You’ll never go back to store bought.

Annie
Can’t wait to share these with you this summer!

3 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts
2 cups couscous
1 large red pepper, roasted, seeded, and diced
1/4 cup minced chives
3 slices cooked bacon, crumbled

Vinaigrette:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons soy sauce
Several grinds on the pepper mill
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Bring the water and salt to a boil.  Add the chicken and reduce the heat until the liquid is just below a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Reserve 2 cups of the liquid, remove the chicken from the rest of the liquid, and set the chicken aside to cool. Bring the reserved liquid to a boil and remove from heat.  Stir in the couscous, cover, and let it sit for 5 minutes. Dice the cooled chicken. Whisk together the vinaigrette ingredients. Fluff the couscous with a fork; toss it with the vinaigrette, chicken, and remaining ingredients.

Serves 6-8

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