Announcing Sugar and Salt: Book Two -The Orange Book! This collection of recipes from my galley and home kitchen will arrive at our door step (or barn step) soon! Here’s a look at the process….
Now that was fun!
Click Sugar and Salt to order.
The grown-up version of a childhood favorite, these twice-baked potatoes are both a nod to my mom and her simply delicious cooking and to Appleton Creamery, from whence this recipe inspiration was born.
Just as satisfying as the traditional, the tangy goat cheese and bite of the scallions takes this classic to another level. Still comfort food, yet elegant enough to serve as a holiday side-dish.
Another thought is to use baby potatoes and serve tiny versions of these delights as a holiday appetizer. Be sure to back off on the baking time and use a small melon scoop to remove the potato flesh.
My mouth might be watering just a tiny bit. Scuze me, I gotta go cook…
Goat Cheese and Scallion Twice-Baked Potatoes
4 large or medium russet potatoes, scrubbed cleaned and pierced with a fork
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 ounces crème frâiche
4 ounces goat cheese
1/4 cup minced scallions
1/4 cup minced parsley
1/8 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place the potatoes in the middle of the oven and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour or until they are tender when squeezed or pierced with a fork.
Remove from oven and slice in half along the widest part of the potato to make it so they will more easily lay flat. Hold each half of potato with a towel and with a spoon scoop out the center. Press through a ricer or smash with a potato masher. Add the rest of the ingredients.
Using either a pastry bag with a large hole or just a spoon, return the potato mixture to the potato shells. At this point you can cover and refrigerate them overnight. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until heated through. If you have refrigerated them, bake for an additional 10 to 15 minutes.
Serves 4 to 6
Thank goodness for comfort food.
Sweet potatoes have become one of my new favorite vegetables. While they also can be considered a carbohydrate, they are so filled with goodness in the vitamin and mineral category, not to mention the fiber, that they don’t count as a strike against you in the same way white potatoes do.
As we move into the deepest days of the calendar, when the daylight hours are at their ebb, meals that require the oven to be on for an hour or so are a welcome balm. Right now, it’s all about the cozy, the creamy, the toasty and the mellow. The way the salty bacon meets the tangy goat cheese blanketed by caramelized onions topping the soft, natural sweetness of the sweet potato is just exactly what the drop in light and temperature of this time of year calls for.When I first made this recipe, we actually had it as the main course with some roasted kale and homemade bread. But it’s swanky enough to stand up as a holiday side with no problem what-so-ever.
Sweet Potatoes Stuffed with Caramelized Red Onion, Goat Cheese and Bacon
To make fresh bread crumbs pulse the equivalent of three large rolls torn into pieces in the food processor until the pieces are the size of peas. Transfer to a baking pan and bake until the crumbs are crunchy, about 15 minutes.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (half for the onions and half for the sweet potatoes)
2 cups sliced red onions; about 2 large red onions
3 cups fresh bread crumbs, the equivalent of three rolls
4 large or 6 medium sweet potatoes, with skins on, cut in half
1/2 teaspoon salt (for the onions, sweet potatoes and stuffing to taste)
several grinds of fresh black pepper (for the onions, sweet potatoes and stuffing to taste)
3 slices bacon, cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 ounces goat cheese
3 tablespoons chicken broth or water
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a half sheet of parchment paper. Place the sweet potatoes flesh side up on the parchment paper and rub with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and bake for 1 hour in the oven.
Meanwhile heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium-sized skillet over medium-high heat. Add the red onion and sauté until the onions are very soft and caramelized, about 20 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low when the bottom begins to stick. When the onions are finished, remove from the pan and add the bacon. Cook until the bacon is almost fully cooked. Drain the fat and then add the onion and the rest of the ingredients to the same pan. Combine well.
When the sweet potatoes are tender, remove from the oven and carefully top with the stuffing by pressing the stuffing into a shape similar to the potatoes. Bake for another 20 to 30 minutes.
Makes 4 to 6
The tricks to making a successful cheesecake are simple. They also make sense when you understand the reason behind them.
Eggs, a major component of cheesecakes, don’t like to be heated quickly or subject to high heat. Instead they like to be handled gently and with a little tender loving care. They freak out when the heat is too fast or too high, curdling or puffing up, both of which we don’t want in a cheesecake. This is why having all ingredients at room temperature to begin with helps. Another trick is some sort of water – either in the form of steam or a water bath, to mitigate the formation of a crust and to gentle the heat. Lastly, letting the cheesecake cool down in the oven helps gentle the change in heat and prevents those craters we don’t want to see in our cheesecakes.
The recipes that ran in the Portland Press Herald today, Vanilla Cheesecake and Lemon Curd Cheesecake, are both favorites in our family. There I also write about how to freeze and thaw cheesecakes, making them a perfect make-ahead dessert. The Lemon Curd Cheesecake has been a holiday dessert for years, appeasing those who are done with the chocolate overload.
For those who know me, but don’t live with me, it sometimes comes as a shock to find that I love football and specifically, the Patriots.
While our guys didn’t play as well as we know they can for the AFC Championship this year… and while I’m still adjusting to the fact that my Sundays will no longer be spent having a blast cheering on my team, there is a small light to this whole thing. I could actually have people over for Superbowl Sunday now. When I was sure that I would be watching the Patriots, I worried that maybe guests weren’t the best choice. One, what if I got grumpy because my team did what they did last weekend and struggled on defense AND offense? (Grumpy definitely happened last weekend.) Two, what if I needed to be hostess, but really all I wanted to do was watch the game? No, guests weren’t a good idea I said honestly to myself. But now, I’m good.
Now that that’s settled, what’s the menu? Well it could be pounds of chips and dip that would require weeks of running and P90X to burn off… OR it could be Texas Beef and Black Bean Chili, Cheesy Corn Muffins, Easy Salsa, Salsa Dip.
See ya next year, guys!
Wow! The response to the Orange Marmalade Pound Cake post was serious. Ya’ll really like your citrus, huh? Thanks for all the emails and comments. It’s always fun to chat with everyone.
Today my Maine Ingredient column ran and it’s on all different kinds of baked brie. Who doesn’t love that? My favorite (today at least) is the Walnut and Lemon Marmalade Bake Brie. Are we seeing a citrus trend here?
This one is the Crushed Pretzel and Garlic-Crusted Baked Brie
Getting ready for a couple of catering jobs and then the Dinner Subscriptions begin!
In this weeks The Maine Ingredient I share a recipe for Boursin Mashers to accompany Delicata Squash with Thyme and Caramelized Onion, Mushroom and Turkey Meatloaf. Comfort food.
Boursin is actually a trademark for a type of cheese that originated in Gournay, France that has since been swallowed by the business of food. The cheese is readily available in the deli section of the grocery store, but a close substitute can easily be made at home with cream cheese, herbs and garlic.
This is also nice as an easy hors d’oeuvres served with crackers, crostinis or crudités
12 ounces cream cheese, softened
1 clove garlic
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh chives
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire
Freshly ground black pepper
Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend well. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Makes 1 cup
Sometimes it’s such a relief to cook for the same number I cook for all summer long. It must sound funny, but it’s actually LESS thinking for me. I don’t have to hold back on amounts like I do when cooking for the family or testing recipes and even then half the time I end up with twice as much as I need! This job came a while ago, but no matter, it has some of my favorites, one of which is oft requested on the Riggin, Artichoke and Roasted Red Pepper Dip. When I take these platters of bubbly, crusty, cheesy flavor out of my wood stove on the boat and bring them on deck to a crowd of hungry sailors, they NEVER come back empty. I’ve taken to setting some aside for the crew so that they get a bite as well.
Artichoke and Roasted Red Pepper Dip
Could the color of these veggies be any prettier? That’s White Bean and Roasted Garlic Dip for the vegans.
More dip, cause we all gotta have our veggies!
Roasted Mushroom Pate en Croute – another one that never comes back empty. For me, this is one that I have to say to myself, “Step awaaay from the food. Awaaaay.”
This one is my favorite because it’s so pretty. Sesame Soy Udon noodles are wrapped around forks and served on a bed of shaved bright purple cabbage. Guests just take one or two forks for their plates.
Delicata Squash and Goat Cheese Tartlets – kinda pop in your mouth goodness.
Playing in my winter kitchen
The word “casserole” conjures up images of canned cream of-fill-in-the-blank soup from my childhood. I grew up in the Midwest, in a household that watched the price of milk and bought in bulk when it went on sale, which meant that we were no stranger to casseroles of the tuna variety and others. While my food tastes have changed and so have my parents’ tastes, right along with their income, I still occasionally call home for a childhood recipe when I’m looking for a one-pot meal to satisfy my children and the child who still lives in me.
Simply put, while the name is old-fashioned, a casserole is just a one-pot meal with the protein starch and vegetable all in one dish. Preferably with a crispy topping, please. Casseroles from our past don’t have to include canned soup to be hearty, one-pot meals. And they don’t have to be something only served for a weeknight dinner. Served in individual bowls or large ramekins and topped with a garnish, you quickly turn an everyday meal into a simple meal fit for entertaining.
This is a wonderful comfort meal for a snowy, winter evening, with friends or just family.
Casserole of Mashed Potato, Portobello Mushrooms and Swiss Chard with Goat Cheese
For the mushrooms and Swiss chard:
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 Portobello mushrooms
1 bunch Swiss chard, coarsely chopped and cleaned well
1/2 teaspoon salt
several grinds of freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
For the potatoes:
8 medium red potatoes, peeled and whole
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more for the water
4 oz. goat cheese
For the mushrooms and Swiss chard:
Preheat oven to 400°. Place the mushrooms and Swiss chard on a roasting pan and sprinkle with oil, salt and pepper. Roast for 40-45 minutes. The Swiss chard may be done before the mushrooms at about 30 minutes. It’s done when it’s wilted and the stems are tender. Remove the Swiss chard with tongs and transfer to a medium sized bowl. Toss with balsamic vinegar. Continue to cook the mushrooms until they begin to get darker on the edges. When the mushrooms are done, let them cool briefly and then slice thinly into long strips.
For the potatoes:
Place the potatoes in a medium stockpot and cover with salted water. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 30-40 minutes or until the potatoes are tender when poked with a fork. Drain the water; add the butter, milk and salt and whip with a hand mixer.
Reduce oven heat to 350°. In four 2-cup oven proof bowls, layer the potatoes, mushrooms and Swiss chard, beginning and ending with the potatoes. Sprinkle with goat cheese and bake for 15-20 minutes or until the edges of the potatoes begin to brown.
Serves 4 (or 6 if you use smaller bowls)
Herbed Feta Cheese
This recipe is only practical if you grow your own herbs, otherwise it gets to be pretty costly. But maybe you have a friend who would be willing to have you raid his or her herb garden for, say, a lovely wedge of herbed feta cheese?
This recipe also makes a wonderful summertime appetizer. Instead of making the Tomato and Kalamata Olive Salad, use whole Kalamata olives and tomato and lemon slices to decorate a platter. If you’ve got extra herbs use them too. It’s a beautiful presentation with all the different colors.
1 pound piece (or several large chunks) good quality feta cheese
8-10 fresh sage leaves
1 small handful fresh dill sprigs
5 sprigs fresh thyme
1 small bunch Greek oregano
4 sprigs of Italian parsley
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 lemon, thinly sliced
Extra-virgin olive oil as needed
1 lemon, thinly sliced
Sprigs of herbs for garnish
Place the cheese, herbs, spices, and lemon slices in a Ziploc bag. Add olive oil until the cheese is covered (you’ll use less oil if you squeeze out air as you add oil). Seal the bag and refrigerate at least 6 hours (24 hours is even better).
Remove the cheese from the bag, reserving the oil. Cut the cheese into bite-size slices and arrange the slices on a platter with the sliced lemon. Drizzle with the reserved oil and garnish with herbs.
Serve at room temperature with crackers or pita bread.